Beyoğlu has long been one of Istanbul’s great centers of culture, nightlife and dining, where traces of its cosmopolitan past mix with Anatolian traditions and a distinctly modern energy.

We’ll begin with comforting homestyle dishes such as vegetables stewed in olive oil and hand-folded mantı before setting out through the neighborhood’s lively backstreets. Along the way, we’ll taste Black Sea-style rice and beans, sample şalgam, a fermented purple-carrot drink, and pass the rock bars, meyhanes and nargile salons that define Beyoğlu after dark.

We’ll then settle into a classic ocakbaşı for grilled lamb kebab and rakı before continuing toward the neighborhood fish market. Our final stops include a fourth-generation sweets shop, where seasonal ayva tatlısı is topped with rich kaymak, and a viewpoint overlooking Beyoğlu for one last toast to the neighborhood’s enduring spirit.