Downtown Athens is a place where life is lived bite by bite, from old-school dairy bars and bustling souvlaki counters to historic markets and hidden arcades.

On this tour, we’ll explore the culinary backstreets of central Athens, tasting thick Greek yogurt with honey and walnuts, loukoumades, northern-style souvlaki and kebab based on a recipe brought by refugees from Constantinople. We’ll also discover the seafood eateries tucked inside the city’s traditional stoas and sample artisanal cheeses, honey and homemade spirits.

At Varvakeios, Athens’ central market, we’ll explore the meat and seafood stalls before stopping for classic booze and bites at a tiny 1970s institution. We’ll then cross over to the fruit, vegetable and pickle market to taste different varieties of Greek olives. Rough, beautiful, ancient and modern, downtown Athens tells the story of the city through its food.