Fes el Bali is the medina area and the city's oldest neighborhood. It's thought to be the largest intact surviving medina in the world. The main gate into the area is Bab Boujloud. As you approach this grand old gate, you get wonderful views of the neighborhood's famed landmark: the minaret of the Medersa Bou Inania, which sits just after the Bab Boujloud gate. Within its walls, the rambling streets spiral out into two distinctly different districts, divided by a meandering river. The left bank is home to the most historic monuments and the majority of the shopping souks, while the right bank may be scruffier but is full of local life and photogenic alleyways. The right bank also has some interesting buildings to search out, including the Al-Andalus Mosque, built in 1321 and noted for its prominent green and white minaret, which actually dates back to the 10th century. Nearby, you'll find a variety of interesting other monuments including an old fondouk (khan or caravanserai) and the crumbling Medersa Sahrij. The entire Old City is a walker's delight, with plenty of opportunities to explore and soak up the atmosphere of Fes life. Be aware that the area is hilly, and the lanes are laid with cobblestones, so wear sturdy shoes.

The Medersa Bou Inania was built between 1350 and 1357 by the Merenid sultan Bou Inan. One of the few religious buildings in the city that non-Muslims may enter, the Medersa (madrassa - Islamic school of learning) is a sumptuous architectural gem and one of Morocco's most gorgeous buildings. Up until the 1960s, this was still a functioning theological school, and the restoration efforts since that time have restored it to its original beauty. The carved woodwork and stucco decoration is magnificent and is a tribute to Morocco's master artisans.

Another example of fine Merenid architecture, the Medersa el-Attarine was built in 1325 by Abu Said. The courtyard here is a wonderful display of the intricate decoration from this period, with elaborate zellige tile work and cedar wood carvings. The upper floor is made up of a warren of cells, which were once home to students studying theology at the Qaraouiyine Mosque (once one of the world's first universities). If you climb up onto the rooftop, you can get great views of the green-tiled roof of the Qaraouiyine Mosque itself.

For shoppers, Fes el Bali is a paradise of local craftwork, with colorful Moroccan slippers, leatherwork, metalwork, rainbow-glass lamps, and tiles all displayed at stalls throughout the district. The streets just west of the Qaraouiyine Mosque have the greatest concentration of shopping opportunities. This is also where you can visit the famous Chouara tanneries of Fes, one of the top things to do in this area. Here, you can watch the traditional dying of animal skins-the first step in making Morocco's many leather products. Leather shops surrounding the tanneries provide bird's-eye views over the area from their rooftops and are the best place to take photos.

The atmospheric old Mellah (Jewish Quarter) is in Fes el Jedid, just north of the Royal Palace. Throughout this compact district, the lanes are lined with fine (though highly dilapidated) examples of early 20th-century houses, which were once home to the vibrant Jewish community of Fes. The small, restored Aben-Danan Synagogue can also be visited here. On the edge of the Mellah is the rambling Jewish cemetery, one of the city's most tranquil spots, and a Jewish Museum housing a collection of objects highlighting Moroccan Jewish life and culture.