In Lisbon’s historic neighborhoods of Mouraria and Graça, where scenic little streets spread out, web-like, in the shadows of St. George Castle, the smell of change (and, of course, garlic) is in the air. Though a long neglected corner of the city, these days many old buildings are rapidly being renewed here, new communities are sinking roots and new restaurants are opening, challenging the stodgy and rough identity that the area is famous for. After all, this is where fado – Lisbon’s trademark musical style – was born in seedy 19th century taverns. Here is one of the bastions of the annual St. Anthony celebrations, where sardines are grilled on street corners. Here also is an incredibly diverse population of old locals, new immigrants and Portuguese bohemians living as neighbors. Here can be found the flavors so integral to the city’s traditions – right alongside delicious evidence that this place is in a state of transition.