At first glance, the Gràcia district of Barcelona appears to be the gatekeeper of the resurgent Catalan identity: “Free Catalonia!” graffiti scrawled in the backstreets, Catalan flags flying from so many balconies, the distinct sound of the Catalan language heard in cafés and eateries. But as one explores the covered markets, bakeries and small bodegas of this colorful, lesser-explored area, the politics du jour recede and the deep culinary roots of this unique culture come into view.