An authentic concoction of eighth-century Fez el Bali (Old Fez), the 13th-century Fez el Jdid (New Fez), and the 20th-century Ville Nouvelle (built by the French), the oldest of Morocco’s imperial cities has been playing second fiddle to jet-set Marrakesh for a while now. No more. A wave of luxury hotels and design-minded restorations of crumbling riads, as well as an innovative food scene, is enhancing its unique identity and putting it on the map even more. A new terminal at the Fes-Saïss Airport is due to increase visitor numbers five fold.